I was a little unsure of doing a tour of Litchfield as I am a very independent traveller and don’t like someone else controlling my trip and worried about the type of people on the bus. Offroad Dreaming has changed my mind. Lyn is a fun informative driver and tour guide. With Pat, I will say is a real life ‘Crocodile Dundee’. More on Pat later.
20 people picked up at various hotels around Darwin and my pick up was 7.20am. First stop, cathedral and magnetic termite mounds
Cathedral termite mound Magnetic termite mounds
Florence Falls has several swimming spots.
Buley Rockhole. We stopped for a dip and delicious lunch prepared by Lyn.
Wangi Falls. No swimming allowed yet as the rangers haven’t found and relocated a crocodile spotted on 19 April 2021. Shame as this spot looks glorious to swim up to the waterfalls.
Introducing Pat. My real life Crocodile Dundee. Complete with a Ruger. In case of emergency. Check my next post for a section devoted to Pat and his Crocodile Cruise.
The decision to drive to Ceduna came about as this would be the closest I will get to seeing the Nullarbor Plain. The road runs along the Great Australian Bight stretch of land on the southern part of Australia which is flat, almost treeless, arid or semi-arid country of southern Australia with the Great Victoria Desert to its north.
The drive from Port Lincoln to Ceduna is 4 hours but it took me 7.5 hours with some stops along the way.
Lake Hamilton Eating House. I cannot imagine the adventurous people who stopped by here to rest in the 1800s. I am exhausted driving from Port Lincoln to here with air conditioning.
Cummings Monument. I parked my little Yaris at the carpark 500m from the monument. Luckily I did. The holes on the way up would have ripped my chassis off. There are warnings not to get too close to the edge and I was too frightened to look over to see the wreck, if you could see it, as the wind was blowing a gale, as it has been since I got to Port Lincoln. Hoping the wind will die down.
Sheringa Roadhouse reminded me of Route 66.
Lochs Well Beach. Bumped into some lovely Colombian people.
This spot has a very safe wooden stairs down to the beach. The beach is very treacherous and not recommended to swim.
Elliston is another lovely beach stop well known for salmon.
Murphys Haystacks are a unique form of pillars and boulders dating back 100,000 years ago. How does something like this end up in such a landscape?
Eyre Waterhole is a free rest area for campers. It is the historic site where early explorer Edward Eyre camped. The Eyre’s Waterhole was an important water supply for the explorer and the local aboriginal people. It’s also known as Cooeyanna Well. The water doesn’t look too refreshing at the moment.
Streaky Bay on the western side of the Eyre Peninsula. Another lovely seaside village.
Smoky Bay population 200. Beach, bay, oysters and quiet place for relaxation.
Left Port Lincoln at 9:30am and arrived at Ceduna at 5:00pm. Resting tonight. Contemplating what my plans will be over the next few days. The South Australian government have implemented restrictions. 10 people permitted in a home, no dancing or singing in indoor venues. Waiting to hear if the masquerade ball in Glenelg will be going ahead on New Years Eve. Watch this space.
On my way back to Darwin from Katherine. Leaving reluctantly as my trip is nearing the end with the last few days of delicious weather in the 30s. I am dreading going back to Sydney and 8 degree weather.
Previously named Katherine Gorge, Nitmiluk is 30km from the township of Katherine. It is a 292000 hectares national park owned by the Jawoyn Aboriginal people. You can do various cruises through the Gorge. I did a 2 hour cruise which included walks between gorges.
Nitmiluk cruise
The sandstone cliffs and waterways are spectacular
In the wet season the water rises to the middle of the top caveSeveral movies have been filmed here including Top End Wedding
Some of the rock art dates back 10,000 years
The circles are an indicator that there are bush potatoes across the gorge. A bit like a shopping catalogue
One thing I did not like about Nitmiluk is the 200,000 bats who arrive every few years. They were here this visit and the stench is unbearable. It wasn’t until I filled my car with petrol and had a good sniff that I got the disgusting smell out of my nostrils. Not even my perfume or sniffing eucalyptus worked.
Started the day with an 86km trip to Ubirr to see Aboriginal Rock Art. Advice to everyone. Before leaving your hotel in the Northern Territory, check to see if the places you plan to attend are open. As many of the tourist and heritage sites are owned by the indigenous Aboriginals, they observe mourning of elders and close various sites as a sign of respect. This was the case this morning with Ubirr. It was disappointing but when travelling the unexpected occurs and in this instance it is important to follow and respect the traditions. I went to the next stop on my way to Katherine, Nourlangie (Burrungkuy)
There is a track which is well signposted. The Shelter is a little steep but not too difficult. Just make sure to take lots of water for these walks
I was so excited to see sacred rock art and the stories are thousands of years old.
My favourite piece is this which represents singing and dancing
The walk up to the lookout looks more difficult than it is and worth doing.
It is thanks to South Australia once and twice to Tasmania closing their borders in the past year that I am in the Northern Territory. NT have been much more sensible to Covid19 management, much like NSW who did not close their border to everyone for one case. Today I drove the 2.5 hours from Darwin to Kakadu.
Drove from my hotel Mercure Crocodile Hotel to Cooinda Lodge to get the tour for Yellow Waters. These signs deter you from stopping to look for crocodiles? I expect instead of catching lunch you may become dinner.
Yellow Waters Cruise and I recommend the sunset cruise is a must do in Kakadu. Our tour guide was Lily who is very knowledgeable and humorous. She loves what she does. Every time something caught someone’s eye she would steer the boat back for us to get the best vantage point. This is the proof. Thank you Lily.
Aquascene in Doctor’s Gully is a sanctuary for fish. They come in at high tide. You can feed the fish which include barramundi, catfish, mangrove jack, mud crabs, stingrays and others.You can stand in the water and they swim around your legs. No crocodiles or sharks here. The harbour fisheries remove any sharks and crocodiles which come into the harbour as soon as they are spotted. Around 200 crocodiles are removed each year.
The first time I realised Darwin, well, anywhere in Australia was bombed during WWII was in Baz Luhurmann’s epic movie “Australia “. I knew Japanese minisubmarines entered Sydney Harbour but I never learned any of this at school!! It’s a disgrace we weren’t taught this important history. The museum shares Darwin WWII stories of people from all walks of life and embarrassingly made me aware of my lack of historical knowledge of my country. Sure I am first generation Australian born of Italian parents but this history should be mandatory in school. This museum is set in pretty grounds with lots of equipment salvaged from the bombing.
More than 270 people perished on 19 February 1942. Luckily the government evacuated women and children following the bombing of Pearl Harbour. But Darwin was taken by surprise.
List of enemy aircraft and what was attacked
Here is a statue representing The Digger and all who have served, past and present, to pritect our freedom and Gunner the kelpie who alerted allies when Japanese aircraft were approaching.
On my travels I have also learned about Japanese and German boats and mines along the New South Wales coastline during WWII. These maps from the Fisherman’s Cottage Museum in South West Rocks NSW show the positions of mines and the loss of life and vessels
Oh the weather here is fabulous. Funnily the locals told me it was cold at 25 this morning. Darwin city is so pretty with an area called the Waterfront. Lovely cafes and restaurants and an area to swim which is protected from crocodiles and Box Jellyfish.
Darwin Waterfront
The Parliament House looks like it is from a tropical island.
Darwin Parliament House
WWII Darwin was bombed by the Japanese for 6 months. Hard to imagine this harbour under attack
Over 50 Aussie female solo traveller USA road trip and beyond 