USA Roadtrip – Over 50 Aussie female solo traveller USA road trip and beyond

End USA Road trip 2018

13 August 2018

I have come full circle. I started my trip in California on 1 March 2018. I have driven 29,850 kilometres/18548 miles, a cruise from Vancouver to Alaska and completed my goal of visiting all 50 USA states. With a slight detour of a Transatlantic cruise to Barcelona from Florida and a drive through two provinces of Canada to meet up with Canadian cousins.

I have very mixed feelings about my Odyssey ending. The beautiful places I have discovered, the interesting, kind and loving people I have met, the memories I have made, the adrenaline, anxiety, excitement, happiness, wonder, awe, sadness leaving people, I feel privileged to have experienced all this and so much more than words can describe.

To everyone who has been part of my journey with me or through my blog, the people who would talk to me on the phone while I was driving to keep me awake, the people who opened their homes family and hearts to me, the people who encouraged me and made me feel I was doing something special, the people who made me feel special, and the people who supported my sons while I was on my journey, I thank you.

Hope to see you all again soon somewhere in the world. My door in Sydney is always open. Just check I am home first 🙂

To the most important people in my life, my gorgeous sons, Dion, thank you for holding the fort at home and Carlos for encouraging me to write this blog. I love you both, as Carlos would say “a thousand times more than the biggest number”.

Let’s see what adventure home has in store for me.

“Happiness is a journey, not a destination. For a long time it seemed to me that life was about to begin—real life. But there was always some obstacle in the way, something to be gotten through first, some unfinished business, time still to be served, a debt to be paid. At last it dawned on me that these obstacles were my life. This perspective has helped me to see there is no way to happiness. Happiness is the way. So treasure every moment you have and remember that time waits for no one”.

ALFRED D. SOUZA writer, philosopher

“Your vibe attracts your tribe”.

“Those who wander are not always lost”. JRR Tolkien

Area 51/Death Valley

8 August 2018

Before venturing to Death Valley I did some extensive research as I had heard it gets very hot at this time of year. I am not used to the extreme temperatures this part of the world experiences.

Satisfied that I would be ok and that my Corolla should function fine, I left Las Vegas at 10:00am with extra water and my snacks of popcorn, cheese, pumpkin seeds and a banana.

I took the longer route from Las Vegas as I was advised it was more scenic and I was so excited when I came across the Area 51 Alien stop. I have seen documentaries and movies which depict the conspiracy theories including UFOs around this Top Secret highly classified Government site just off Route 95 Nevada

Next door is the biggest firecracker.

I drove through the Beatty entrance of Death Valley.

The Sahara Desert has temperatures which reach 47C/117F and today I drove through Death Valley my car temperature reached 49C/120F. This thermometer outside the Ranger’s Station at Stovepipe Wells at 2:00pm in the shade is proof of how hot it gets.

One thing I did not get to do in Death Valley was drive through naked. I thought this part of the world would get few people so I could check this item off my bucket list. I don’t think there is anywhere in the USA which has no-one driving through to enable me to fulfill this goal. This small section of the Mesquite Dunes are an example of how many people are around the Valley.

Stovepipe Wells is the first resort in Death Valley.

Mosaic Canyon

The changing landscape.

Leaving Death Valley through Lone Pine to Bakersfield, the landscape changes again.

Video of Cow Flat Creek in the Sequioa National Park outside Bakersfield.

Minnesota

14 June 2018

Leaving La Crosse, Wisconsin I crossed the bridge to Minnesota. Again, the changes of scenery astonish me. The speed limit on the road was 80kph (50mph) and I wanted to go slowly to take everything in. To my left there were stunning valleys that met the sky and to my right the majestic Mississippi River.

As this will be the last time on this trip that I will see the Mississippi, I decided to stop at as many towns as possible on the Great River Road.

Winona Minnesota

Wabasha Minnesota

Stockholm Wisconsin

On the road at Maiden Rock Wisconsin I stopped to help this turtle. The speed limit here was 80kph (50mph). I put on my hazard lights as I was on a no overtaking part of the road. I was so worried a vehicle would run it over. Did you think turtles were slow and docile. I got the shock of my life with this aggressive one. I had my jacket I was going to use to pick up the turtle from behind and take it to safety in the scrub. This thing started snapping at me, rearing up like a snake and coming at me, it followed my every move with quick sudden moves as I was trying to get behind it but I didn’t get closer than a metre (3′). It scared me more than the snake yesterday. I was avoiding getting hit by trucks and cars to save this damn animal but I got into my car and drove off feeling a failure and shaky. I found on Google that this species of turtle is appropriately known as a “snapping turtle” and their bite is very painful. I won’t be stopping for one of these again.

After that distressing event, I went on to my final Mississippi town, Red Wing Minnesota.

I went across to the marina (in the photo above) across the bridge back to Trenton, Wisconsin to find someone who might lend me a line so I could go fishing in my favourite river. How many of you can say you have fished in the Mississippi River.

Thank you to Brad from the Harbor Bar Restaurant Marinawho lent me his rod, although I think there was something wrong with it because I didn’t catch anything.

Quirky local man, Kevin, invited me onto the houseboat he has built. The boat has a dragon (because he couldnt find a gargoyle big enough) on his houseboat complete with glowing red eyes. (I did say quirky).

I was very impressed with the amount of travel Kevin has done and also the interesting decor of his floating home.

He has an incinerator toilet!! It burns the waste and once a month he removes the tray below the pan and empties the remains which are ashes.

Kevin doesn’t drink alcohol but he collects wine from every vineyard he has been to around the world.

The bathroom

Kitchen cupboards with collectables.

And collection of pubs.

This is the view from the houseboat on the Wisconsin side of the Mississippi River looking at Red Wing Minnesota and watching the Canadian Pacific go through to Canada. Click here for video

Kevin has party lights all over the boat, inside and out, with huge speakers facing Minnesota across the river on which he plays music including ACDC cranked up like it’s meant to be. I took this photo of his houseboat from across at Red Wing.

He apparently puts his music on at a set time every night and my visit distracted him and people were shouting across the river reminding him he was late with his music show for the locals. This is what it sounds like across the river.

What an enjoyable day on the Mississippi River. I will miss you Old Man River and hope we meet again soon.

Weaverville North Carolina

This “village” outside Asheville warrants a separate posting for their culinary offers. All three (3) eateries I had the pleasure to eat at, had some of the best food I have eaten. Who would have thought walking into the Well Bred Bakery & Cafe to find delights reminiscent of what you would enjoy in a cafe in Leura or Surry Hills. It was mouth watering trying to choose between the cakes, breads and quiches.

The Glass Onion is an Italian restaurant and I had the Zuppa della Nonna. A minestrone type soup with italian meat balls and chicken. I loved it so much I bought an order to takeaway (to go) for dinner the next night. I also bought a side of mash with bacon and their home made garlic bread rolls drowned in olive oil and garlic. Delicious!!

Then the Creperie Cafe I had the Carolina crepe with cream cheese, strawberries and blueberries. Just the perfect balance of sweet.

It is so difficult to find decent food which isn’t fried and slathered with cheddar cheese, that these three (3) eateries in one village, I felt like I was in the Twilight Zone.

I understand that there are other great restaurants in Weaverville but I did not have the time to enjoy them.

Weaverville has given me hope that I will find more decent food during my travels. Perhaps the secret is going to the smaller towns as I have been doing this trip.

Tallahassee Florida

6 April 2018

With sadness I left Santa Rosa Beach. I enjoyed my decadent week of relaxation in a very pretty upper middle class “predominantly white” holiday area similar (but not really) to the Australian Gold Coast. Here there are mile after mile of mansions mainly used as weekenders, and as I was here during Spring break it felt like all of America’s school age people were here spread across Panama City to Gulf Shores riding their bicycles or driving around in their golf buggies. Most of the people who come to this part of the world are from Tennessee and Georgia. Although the area I stayed in has a private beach so I did not venture outside the gated community often.

Orlando was meant to take me six (6) hours to drive but I allowed two (2) hours for stops to explore. It actually took me 12 hours because I was having so much fun exploring and then was stuck in traffic when a truck burst into flames in the forest on the roadside of the South 10. I was impressed with how quickly all the emergency services responded and put out the fire before all the forest caught alight. NSW could look into their methods particularly when there is an accident on the M1.

I have decided that when I move on to my next stop I have to remind myself to enjoy the journey, explore and not rush straight to the final destination.

Today I had a day of football, witches and fairies.

First stop was exploring Tallahassee, the capital of Florida. From what I saw it is predominantly a university town and has the beautiful and huge Florida State university(FSU).

I was curious to visit the Sod Cemetery at FSU. University football teams have a quirky tradition when they win a big match at the opposing team’s home ground. If the visitors win they take a piece of the playing field (sod) and bury it in their “Sod Cemetery” complete with headstones.

I also took a photo of their walk of fame and entrance of the university football exhibition

A magical stop was at Lichgate on High Road. The house was built by a FSU Professor Laura Jepson. The magical part of the property is the labyrinth she built near the majestic tree which reminded me of the tree in Avatar.

I met 3 beautiful women including identical twins Len and Leslie The twins were born with osteogenesis imperfecta and are 2 of the most inspiring and fun people I have met. I could have stayed in this magical fairyland with these women for hours but I needed to move on. Thank you ladies for reminding me there is no such thing as coincidence.

Next I went to the Tallahassee Old Cemetery to visit the gravesite of a white witch Elizabeth Budd-Graham.

The 9/11 Whale sculptures are a memorial built by Bruce Brinson and his friends. The whales are named Glory, Hope, Faith and Grace.

Santa Rosa Beach Florida

29 March 2018

Having driven across seven (7) southern USA states and 6000 kms (3900 miles) with rain, wind, cold and snow I am rewarding myself with a few days rest in this affluent beach holiday area. Currently it is spring break so there are lots of young people and families. This is a popular holiday area for Tennessee people.

The landscape and culture has changed so much from California with a large Hispanic Mexican influence, Arizona and Texas with cowboys, Mississippi predominantly negro and across to this part of Florida which is beautiful but feels noticeably “white”.

Majestic beachside mansions and the beaches have the whitest sand, which I concede this Florida beach is comparable to ours in Australia.

I am staying in the house of my friend, Paul from Nashville. He is off working around the USA and I have the pleasure of the company of his friends Walt and Lisa together with their teenage daughters.

Anna Caroline showed me this quirky spot Big Jack’s Gator Park

The bridges in Florida are quite different. They have very low walls I expect so you can see the view. I get the feeling that if a wave comes up you will get washed over into the Gulf or marsh.

Bridge from Alabama to Florida

This area is one of the first where many people use bicycles instead off motor vehicles. There are bicycle lanes and the beach has a boardwalk to conveniently leave your pedal transportation.

The beaches and lagoons in this area are very beautiful with their white sand.

I visited Grayton Beach which has a turtle colony but I was not fortunate to witness any turtles.

Alabama

29 March 2018

I left Hattiesburg Mississippi and crossed into Alabama. My only stop here was the USS Alabama in Mobile.

The Mobile, Alabama skyline.

Natchez Mississippi

27 March 2018

My last night’s sunset in Vicksburg needs no words.

Leaving Vicksburg I found these lovely antebellum ladies.

Stopped in Port Gibson Claiborne County which was where negroes boycotted the businesses in town to fight for their rights to work as police, be included on school boards and basically to be treated as equals. It took 11 years of boycotting and fighting to the supreme court. Port Gibson boycott

I drove out to the Windsor Ruins which are all that is left of a grand mansion which was used by Confederate and Union troops during the Civil War. Mark Twain also wrote about the building which was on a 2600 acre plantation. Now all is left are these amazing columns.

This place is a long way from phone and people and I did not realise I lost my GPS and again I forgot to download the offline map. I was a little concerned as down the road there were signs (such as our road signs to watch out for kangaroos) for bears.

While I was trying to work out if I should just go back the way I came, a family arrived. My saviours. What a lovely family!! Not only did they show me the way, I joined them on their adventure. Melanie, Shelby and their daughters Vaden and Cassidy told me about the Old General Store a few miles down the road and recommended a stop.

While there I asked a man in uniform if I could get a picture and then there were four!! They are Mississippi Wildlife Fisheries and Park Law Enforcers. Check the weapons they have including tasers. Not sure the Aussie Park rangers have any of this equipment although we don’t have bears.

I later learned that these law enforcers (Mississippi Wildlife Fisheries and Parks) deal with moonshiners and illegal drug cultivators as well as hunters. I forget the breadth of gun usage in this country and so the law enforcers need to be armed accordingly.

Then on to the Frog Farmwith quirky frog sculpture art.

Melanie invited me to her mother’s farm just outside of Natchez and I could not refuse some Southern hospitality. Melanie’s mum, Trudy provided a very local lunch of chicken, green chilli jelly and cornbread. Delicious.

And Vaden gave me a cookie she decorated.

Trudy was so welcoming I was sorry I had to leave. I will hold you to that open invitation Trudy.

See you again lovely people.

I eventually arrived in Natchez four hours later than scheduled.

Natchez has many more antebellums (homes from before the civil war) than Vicksburg as they did not lose any in the Civil War.

And a couple of quirky places.

Mammy’s Cupboard

Vicksburg Mississippi

26 March 2018

Visited the Vicksburg National Military Park. Difficult to imagine that this pretty serene parkland was an historical battle site between the Union and the Confederates. The battle in this small town was the turning point of the civil war.

The Coca Cola Museum, with the original soda fountain, is where this famous drink was first bottled.

Downtown Vicksburg Mississippi

25 March 2018

I had been told Vicksburg is a must to visit on my previous trip to the USA but did not get the opportunity until today. I got more than I hoped for. Driving across this beautiful bridge my phone pinged with “welcome to Mississippi”.

OMG I am in another state I have not yet visited and I am driving across the Mississippi River. “m i double s i double s i double p i” was a skipping chant we played at school!! At that time I never imagined I would be saying that driving over the river itself!