Pennsylvania

11 May 2018

Ohiopyle Falls!! Why didn’t I know about this place? Thank you to the Park officer at Fort Necessity who mentioned this gem of a place. This is a place I want to return to for a few days and do some whitewater rafting and hiking.

Just down the road is Cucumber Falls.

Ohiopyle Falls were previously known as Falls City and located 25 minutes from the little town of Hopwood (this is my current airbnb) Hopwood has a population of 1,900 and, as many parts of the USA, abounds with history.

Fort Necessity is the location of George Washington”s first battle and defeat. He was 22 years old.

The George Washington Tavern was a stagecoach stop, just down the road from Fort Necessity.

I had the privilege of being given a private tour of the Bruderhof New Meadow Run Community in Farmington. The Bruderhof is a self sustaining Christian community with about 230 members. There are settlements in Germany, England and Australia. The Australian one is set in Inverell, NSW.

They are a passive community where their children are schooled within the community and they have a high school in Upstate New York.

They have a wood furniture factory in their community and also publish books which are free. Thank you to Ben for showing me around and Frances for giving me a female perspective on the community.

The impressive Great Cross of Christ sits on the mountain at Jumonville. It stands 18.2 metres (60 feet) high, 756 metres (2480 feet) above sea level and was built after WWII.

Charleston West Virginia

10 May 2018

Today I really wasn’t into doing much but had to find a fridge magnet for West Virginia (WV). My stop at the capital of WV, Charleston, had a gift shop in the West Virginia State Museum where I succeeded in finding my magnet.

This museum has one of the best displays of history. I was very moved in many parts, especially at the end of the tour with the song“Take me home country road, to the place, I belong. West Virginia.Mountain Mamma. Take me home“. This museum covered railroads and coal mining, marching bands and immigration, a pumpkin festival and Italian festival and of course the Civil War and much more.

The quirky post today is this display in the museum. The Dressed Fleas Emmiline and Alexander.

The Capitol Building in Charleston WV.

Charleston University

Some of the houses on the Ohio River who have a direct view of the Capitol Building.

My highlight for today was cooking for my airbnb hosts in Pennsylvania, Keith and Shanda. I have been missing my home cooking and cooked potato and carrot soup, pasta sauce “a la Edi” and tomorrow I will cook my brocolli soup and tortellini carbonara.

Augusta Ohio/Huntington West Virginia

The road from Cincinatti Ohio to West Virginia runs through beautiful green lush country side. The treescape makes for a pleasant drive as was the scenery through Kentucky, Virginia, North and South Carolina. The roadkill through those states has been significant compared to what I see on my roadtrips driving from New South Wales to Queensland.

The roadkill I have seen is around 50 animals per hour, often small, which I expect would be squirrels and birds, and larger raccoons, possums, small pigs or hogs and a few larger furry animals I could not discern. I prefer not to drive at night as I expect I would encounter more live animals on the road at that time than I do through the day. I am thankful the animals I have almost hit were on roads where I was travelling slow enough to miss them without putting myself in danger. A few orange birds which I think are the Northern Cardinal (the state bird of Kentucky) have played chicken with my car several times, I had to stop several times for squirrels, twice for beaver and once for a turkey. I have no intention or wish to hit any animal, for theirs and my safety. This country has lots of wild animals. I have yet to see a bear and would enjoy that so long as he or she isn’t hungry and is not coming in my direction.

I didn’t do much sightseeing today but I stopped off at Augusta Kentucky (there are several States where you continually cross their borders as the road winds in and out of the State).

I saw a documentary with George Clooney about this town of 1,100. He went to Augusta University and his aunt, the actress, singer, Rosemary Clooney lived in Augusta.

Augusta’s history dates back to 1787

and has a ferry which takes cars across the Ohio River for $5US.

Some of their historical buildings

On arriving in Huntington WV fatigue has set in and I will have a rest for the remainder of today.

I will take this opportunity to provide some information which might be of use for others who are planning a roadtrip.

Travelmath.com is a trip calculator for distances in kilometres and miles, travel time between 2 cities and naming cities or towns to stop in between.

Something very frustrating in the USA is mobile phone reception for data and/or calls. For a country which sends people to the moon and into space it has not mastered phone and data service in all parts of their country. I have been without reception in Mississippi and now in Huntington West Virginia (WV), the second largest city in WV, I have no reception. Whistleout is an excellent site which shows you the coverage for providers and not one covers all the USA.

Cincinatti Ohio

8 May 2018

I am staying with Amber in her apartment in Cincinatti. I met Amber and her friend Ryan on a pedestrian bridge in Nashville Tennessee three (3) years ago when I asked them to take a photo of me with the Predators stadium in the background.

They asked me where I was from and what I was doing in Nashville and at that time I was travelling around America (North and South) after dropping off my son at George Washington University for his semester of exchange study abroad. I was also to fly to Orlando to watch my older son compete in the Cheerleading World Championships.

After having dinner, Amber and Ryan filmed me bootscooting at the White Horse Saloon and Ryan offered me one of his spare tickets to the Ice Hockey playoffs between the Nashville Predators and Chicago Black Hawks. My second ice hockey game and both times the Black Hawks won.

Ryan Amber and I have communicated since then and I am now in Amber’s apartment in Cincinatti as she kindly invited me to stay and show me around.

Last night’s baseball game was lots of fun with Amber and her friends, Brenna and Carlos.

This morning I went to Eden Park, an oasis in suburban Cincinatti, although to get there I had to dodge some squirrels scampering out from the woods. The park overlooks the Ohio River to Kentucky.

This statue of Remus and Romulus and the Wolf was gifted to Cincinatti by Benito Mussolini.

This cormorant fisherman statue is a friendship gift from Japan. I found the description about the work demanded of the Cormorant disturbing.

Quaint mushroom house.

Tomorrow on to West Virginia.

Kentucky to Ohio

7 May 2018

Every time I cross another border I am amazed at what I see. I seem to continually say “it is soo pretty” or “WTF, how big can these houses get!” I have to say these to myself as I cannot call my friends because of the time difference in Australia or unless they are here in the moment it just is not the same or they get annoyed that it is a reminder they are at work and I am not. It is probably the worst part of travelling alone, not having someone to share the moment, but it doesn’t make me want to change anything. I would be happy for someone to join me but I am really enjoying the whole experience, even the melancholy moments, which do not last for long.

There are people around whom I can have a chat with, whether it is the hotel manager who works the late shift that I had a late night snack with or the elderly man who insisted on escorting me across the Roebling Suspension Bridge from Kentucky to Ohio.

Or the person who filmed this crazy 50+ year old climbing the flying pigs sculpture in Cincinatti.

There’s always someone who will fulfill my need to have a chat.

Cincinatti was known as “porcopolis” in the 1800s so they have a Flying Pigs Marathon and flying pigs to welcome you to the riverfront.

Cincinatti is known as the Queen City of Ohio. A Queen City is the largest city of a State or province which isn’t the capital.

Then there are the people dancing on the keyboard of the Smale Park Foot Piano.

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The Smale Park tulips in the Alzheimer’s Garden.

The Roebling Covington Floodwall murals on the Kentucky side of the Roebling Suspension Bridge.

And I went to my first baseball game in the USA at the Great American Ballpark the home of the Cincinatti REDS. What a lot of fun these games are, not just to enjoy the game but the audience fun with Kiss Cam and shooting T-shirts out of a cannon into the audience and general fun capturing the audience on screen.

I got a certificate for my first baseball game and had the obligatory photo with a police officer and the REDS mascot.

Thank you Amber for the great night.

Pikeville Kentucky

6 May 2018

I woke up to a heavy rain but decided no matter what, I was going sightseeing.

I drove to Pauley Bridge (the bridge to nowhere) and just as I stepped onto the bridge the sun came out and the rain stopped.

The Breaks known as the Grand Canyon of the South is on the border of Virginia (Virginia is for Lovers) and Kentucky, 48 km (30 miles) from Pikeville.

This is the vista from the Kentucky side overlooking the Russell Fork River, which is popular for whitewater rafting.

I then drove to the Stateline Lookout on the Virginia side of The Breaks.

The Breaks Stateline Lookout Virginia

I thought these Elk were cute in Elkhorn City.

The Hatfield and McCoy feud is a very big part of Pikeville history and could be compared in some ways to Australia’s Ned Kelly story. The town has a historical trail of the Feud including the resting place of some involved in the feud.

I have been complaining about the weight I am gaining because I am driving so much and not dancing. I heard about the 99 steps of UPike (University of Pikeville). “UPike climb of 99” . So I decided to do this walk for some exercise. This climb is also part of an initiation for Freshmen.

What a surprise when I got to the top that I was given a goodies bag as congratulations.

Did I say I did the walk because of my weight gain?

These cute bear structures are scattered around Pikeville.

AS a volunteer for the Red Cross Emergency Services I am keen to meet up with other volunteers around the world. When I found this sign for the Red Cross I asked where the volunteer office was located. Someone in uniform advised me that they were located on the 4th floor. No-one was in the office but I soon realised I was in the local gaol.

Behind the corrections facility you will find the Pikeville Drag Racing track.

I ended my time in Pikeville with this sad story of Octavia Hatcher

Kentucky

5 May 2018

Today I left North Carolina for Pikeville Kentucky. I randomly chose Pikeville as a stop as it was just over three (3) hours drive from Asheville.

A reminder that the goal of my trip is to visit the States I have not yet been to, today I started in North Carolina and to my excitement within three (3) hours I drove through Tennessee, West Virginia and Virginia to get to Kentucky. So today I could mark off three (3) more States. Although I won’t count them until I have stopped at some spot of interest.

The drive got a bit scary at times. It started raining as I crossed into Kentucky. It was pelting down and at times the car aquaplaned. The road was very steep and winds through the Appalachian mountains and there were many spots where the water funneled across the road rather than down the side of the road. Thankfully the drivers here aren’t like the aggressive Floridians.

Arrived at my motel, the Daniel Boone Motor Inn, yep, he was a real person, not just in the TV show. He is famous for exploring and settling one of the first American townshipswest of the Appalachians, Boonesborough, Kentucky. I took it easy the first night in Pikeville as the rain has not let up.

Weaverville North Carolina

This “village” outside Asheville warrants a separate posting for their culinary offers. All three (3) eateries I had the pleasure to eat at, had some of the best food I have eaten. Who would have thought walking into the Well Bred Bakery & Cafe to find delights reminiscent of what you would enjoy in a cafe in Leura or Surry Hills. It was mouth watering trying to choose between the cakes, breads and quiches.

The Glass Onion is an Italian restaurant and I had the Zuppa della Nonna. A minestrone type soup with italian meat balls and chicken. I loved it so much I bought an order to takeaway (to go) for dinner the next night. I also bought a side of mash with bacon and their home made garlic bread rolls drowned in olive oil and garlic. Delicious!!

Then the Creperie Cafe I had the Carolina crepe with cream cheese, strawberries and blueberries. Just the perfect balance of sweet.

It is so difficult to find decent food which isn’t fried and slathered with cheddar cheese, that these three (3) eateries in one village, I felt like I was in the Twilight Zone.

I understand that there are other great restaurants in Weaverville but I did not have the time to enjoy them.

Weaverville has given me hope that I will find more decent food during my travels. Perhaps the secret is going to the smaller towns as I have been doing this trip.

Asheville North Carolina

5 May 2018

Last night I had a fun night shooting pool with hillbillies from Flat Creek. Today I had a giggle with people at the other end of the spectrum, the Omni Grove Park Inn.

This hotel has two (2) fireplaces, each 11 metres (36 feet) wide which can burn logs up to 4 metres (12 feet)long in the great hall which is 36 metres (120 feet) long and 24 metres (80 feet) wide.

Check the size of the chimney.

The view from the rear terrace.

The original lift still functions and runs along the chimney shafts within rockwork of the fireplace.

The 3rd floor is the original atrium lobby.

Betsy is one of the Hotel Ambassadors who not only provided me a history of this hotel but recounted her time at MLC Melbourne when she was 13 years old.

Not only was I impressed with all the fine detail of this plush hotel, what made an impact was that anyone is welcome to spend the day admiring and touring the hotel without being a guest. They also have three (3) hours free parking to allow you to do this. This fabulous hotel also has a golf course. Perhaps one day I can afford to stay here.

This morning I visited the historical birthplace of the Governor of North Carolina Zebulon B Vance. He served both during and after the Civil War.

Lake Lure is the famous place Dirty Dancing was filmed. I was disappointed I didn’t have anyone to reproduce the lake scene with nor anyone to dance with in the gazebo.

The flowering bridge in Lake Lure

The Broad River in Chimney Rock is dotted with pretty cabins and houses.

I found the Bat Cave but Batman was nowhere to be seen.

These homes in Asheville are very different to the homes in Florida and other parts of the USA. I could have photographed so many more.

South and North Carolina

3 May 2018

Goodbye Savannah. I don’t plan much of this trip until the day before and even on the day I change my stops.

I don’t even know why I chose Congaree National Park to stop at on the way to Asheville North Carolina.

I left Savannah with its beautiful Spanish moss trees.

The Congaree National Park is in South Carolina and has hardwood trees.

This park is so serene and peaceful you can hear the wind rustling through the tops trees with no movement in the leaves but squirrels scampering and lots of birdsong.

However something broke the peacefulness and the park ranger confirmed what I thought was gunshots in the distance. Hunting season was on for hogs which are a nuisance here as well as at home.

The park ranger said not many Aussies come through here and he gifted me a walking stick for my walkabout.

This mosquito meter would be useful at home.

Driving through South Carolina I came across several rail crossings. I gave myself a wake up when I almost drove through one without stopping to check for trains.

I had a car tailgating me, as almost every car does in this country and I cannot shake the uneasiness I feel. I feel pressured to drive faster and try to make a conscious effort not to let the vehicle behind me control my speed.

This afternoon at this first railway crossing, it had flashing lights but no boom gate. I did slow down, looked right and left, then crossed the track. What felt like just 5 seconds later I looked in my rear mirror and a train went flying past sounding the warning signal. It reminded me of the book I was reading on the train to San Diego which stated there were many fatalities on USA rail crossings as many don’t have flashing lights or boom gates and people don’t pay attention or don’t stop and check before driving over the track. I certainly will stop no matter how close another car is to me.

Other signage of interest is the animal warnings. I have seen a lot of roadkill including small pig, snake, deer, possum and lots unidentifiable. Some of the signs have been to watch out for pigs (boar), alligators, deer, bears, turtles.

Crossing the border to North Carolina is another new experience. I feel like I am in hillbilly country and that was confirmed for me later in the evening. The landscape is hilly/mountainous, very green, with very different trees to the previous States.

The Airbnb I am staying in is in the backwoods of Weaverville. Do you agree it sounds like somewhere Gomer Pyle would come from? (O lordy I just Googled Gomer Pyle and the character is portrayed as from North Carolina)

The road (or rather track) to the house is similar to the road to Jenolan Caves. Narrow, windy, with big drops if you go over the edge it is a long way down. I had to psych myself up to leave the house knowing that I would have to drive that road in the dark on the way back from dinner. I don’t think anything has frightened me this much on the trip. Well of course I went to search for dinner and dancing. My hosts recommended Cowboys Lounge for dancing as it was open until 2am and that sounded perfect.

I mastered the windy road and when I got to the main road wasn’t sure whether to go right or left. When I took the left turn the GPS rerouted so I thought all would be fine. I passed this church.

And this building

And the road started to get narrower and steeper. When I came across a car stopped on the other side of the road on a dangerous bend I stopped and asked for directions. The person was the Sherrif and he was so concerned about where I was going he insisted I turn around and follow him. He said I would have arrived at my destination but the road was not a good one. He also said he didn’t think Cowboys Lounge was a place for me but he could show me where to get dinner. So I followed him to Weaverville and found an Italian restaurant, Glass Onion, with soup so delicious I took a second order back to the Airbnb.

Of course I didn’t pay attention to the Sheriff’s recommendation not go to the Cowboys Lounge which is now called the Tbirds. It was exactly what I was looking for. A place with locals, rednecks and by their admission, hillbillies. I was made very welcome by everyone. Most of them had never met an Aussie ever. One had been to Melbourne twice but he didn’t look nor act like a local. One asked me if I had been to Flat Creek before. I made him laugh because I had no idea that was where I was.

I had a few games of pool and had a lovely evening with these people.