Easter Road Trip Day 6 Broken Hill

23 April 2019

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I arrived at the most western town in New South Wales, Broken Hill. The reason I decided on this road trip. From White Cliffs I had to go back to Wilcannia to take the road to Broken Hill. Only one place to stop between Wilcannia and Broken Hill is the Little Topar Hotel.

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The hospitality was typical country although their “ring for service” bell might make you believe they do not offer friendly service. But the rabbit trap “ring for service” bell is typical Australian humour.

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Broken Hill, known as the silver city, the Capital of the Outback, is the longest lived mining city in Australia. The break in the hills which gave the name to Broken Hill no longer exists due to being mined away.  The city has beautiful heritage listed buildings.

And modern buildings.

The Living Desert and Sculptures of Broken Hill is the perfect place to be for sunset.

 

The Palace Hotel is the Outback site for the movie, Priscilla Queen of the Desert. The movie starts in my local area, the Imperial Hotel in Erskineville Sydney and ends in the Palace Hotel Broken Hill.  Broken Hill now hosts the “Broken Heel” drag queen festival in September each year. I don’t like to be negative in my blogs but these 2 drag queens were not a good advertisement for the Broken Heel Festival or drag queens in general, on this night. They had just completed a show for the Indian Pacific guests and were in the foyer in full view of patrons hoping to get a photo opportunity. They eventually capitulated but they were the most uninviting Drag Queens I have encountered. Hopefully this was just a bad night because they gave drag queens a bad image.  Give me good old Sydney drag queens any day, oh, and the Idaho Queen of drag, Minerva Jayne.

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famous paintings seen in Priscilla Queen of the Desert

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Easter Road Trip Day 5 White Cliffs

22 April 2019

White Cliffs is an opal mining community with underground dugouts for accommodation because of the extreme temperatures in this region. Again, I encountered some floodwater and places of mud where the water receded. The colours out here are spectacular contrasts. Red earth and green trees.

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White Cliffs people say “where blue sky meets red earth”. The storm rolling in added other dimensions of colours.

White Cliffs has a population of 150.

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The golf course gives a very different meaning to “green”.

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White Cliffs golf course Hole 1

While waiting for my hotel room, I went to the local pub with Olivia as the friendly local barmaid keeping everyone watered. Met the local school teacher with 11 students, 4 of which are her children. Met a local who came in to tell the mates he got off with a $1500 fine and didn’t lose his gun licence. It transpired he had gone shopping in town, took his gun out of the boot, placed it on the ground while he packed his groceries in the boot and forgot to put his rifle back in the boot. You try this in the city and you would probably get a $10,000 fine and a stint in jail. Being around city people I realise I only have their perspective on guns in Australia but have not experienced the rural perspective till this trip. In Cobar I noticed there are gun, hunting and “shooters” magazines.

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After Port Arthur, I had forgotten we had a gun culture before but did not realise we still have one and it is not just the Americans who have guns. In the early 1980s I used to make my own ammunition for target shooting and my ex husband’s pig and kangaroo hunting (I only shot targets). When I lived in Brazil we had access to all  types of guns.  Guns are accepted in rural areas, just city people do not seem to have an understanding of the need for guns in rural areas.

Anyhow, I found the locals very interesting friendly people who have  intriguing tales of how they come to be in this remote, small community.

The Underground Hotel was as interesting as I expected.  What I did not expect was how sleeping in a “cave” is damp, musty and my allergies flared up.  I was glad I was only there one night though, but also glad I had the experience.

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staircase to the roof
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roof of the underground hotel

At this hotel I met people whose children had my son as their teacher, people whom I met in Cobar, and 25 Jehovas Witnesses who were travelling around remote areas “spreading their teaching”.

One of the local artists uses rail spikes for his art.

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Finally for White Cliffs, this sign in the local toilet.

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Translation ” Warning. If you keep the toilet lid down there will be less chance of there being a snake in the toilet bowl. Thank you”

Easter Road Trip Day 4 The Outback

21 April 2019

Today I have crossed into a part of Australia I have never been to, “The Australian Outback”.

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For my friends around the world, I live in a state (NSW) 809,000sq km (312,000sq miles), it is larger than Texas 695,000sq km (268,000 sq miles). The population of Texas is 28 million and NSW is 7 million. Texas has 3 million more people than all of Australia, yet all of the USA continental states fit inside Australia. You can fit all of Europe in Australia.  This gives you an idea of how large Australia is but our population is concentrated along the coast as the centre is mostly desert. The Outback is similar to New Mexico.

This part of the Outback is mining country and I love the pubs along the way.

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Narromine Pub
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Trangie Hotel

 

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The Imperial Hotel Trangie

The smallest town so far is Nevertire. How cute is the name? Population 103. The road trains in the Outback are huge. They are bigger than anything I saw in the USA. Oh, other than RVs towing, a boat, towing, a car, towing a golf cart.

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Road train in Nevertire

The trains are not as long as the USA but this is quite impressive.

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Stopped off in Nyngan, in the Bogan Shire, on the Bogan River.

Bogan is also Australian slang to describe an unrefined, unsophisticated person. The “bogan” comes out in me when I go to watch my rugby league team play.  Nyngan has a large statue “the Big Bogan” which has caused a bit of controversy, but this falls within the Australian humour and our larrikin (an uncultivated, rowdy but good hearted person) behaviour.

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Cobar has a population 3,800 and is mainly a copper mining town, although there are also gold, silver, lead and zinc mines.

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There is so much controversy about open cut mines and what they do to the landscape but this is awesome. It looks like a piece of art.

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Fort Mount Bourke gold mine

It is so dry here that I taste dirt, my eyes and nasal passages are very dry.  This is the local football field.  No grass here.  They breed them very tough in Cobar.

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I wasn’t even in Cobar for 2 minutes before I had the red and blue lights flashing.  I was so surprised as I have been careful the whole time driving as it is double demerits and I want to be careful not to hit any animals at all, but definitely not going over the speed limit.  I realised that this is a small town and I was a new car in town and a new target.  They were disappointed as I won’t even have one drink the night before I drive on a roadtrip.  Cannot afford to not be 100% alert.

The Great Western Hotel has the longest balcony in the State.  It was lovely having dinner on that balcony overlooking the main street of Cobar.

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Cannot go through Cobar without getting a photo of the biggest beer can.