#solofemaletraveller – Page 2 – Over 50 Aussie female solo traveller USA road trip and beyond

Salisbury UK

4 May 2022

After the dirty, polluted, uncivilised Egypt, it was so refreshing arriving in Salisbury at 6:00pm after arriving at Heathrow at 1:30pm. Took the Heathrow express to Paddington station, then a tube to Waterloo and then a fast train (GWR) to Salisbury. The train conductor was very helpful and took my bags from me and stored them. It was so lovely not to tip anyone. My accommodation Peartree Serviced Apartments are a 2 minute walk from Salisbury station. This accommodation is beautiful. It is a 10 minute walk to the centre of town. My first walk through town and it was such a contrast to where I had been for the last 9 days.

Day 2 I walked and chatted to several tourists from London and Scotland. All enjoying the beautiful weather. It was 20 Celsius!! I went to the Old Mill Hotel, Salisbury Cathedral and enjoyed the meadows. I found a ladies toilet and it required 50pence to open the door. I forgot to swap my change from Egypt to UK but there was a kind park worker who opened up the bathroom and allowed me to use for free.

Met this trout fisherman. He wasn’t catching much as at this time of year you cannot use bait.

I enjoyed a lovely afternoon tea in the Salisbury Cathedral grounds. The Cathedral holds one of the originals of Magna Carta, an 800 year old symbol of social justice, inspiring human rights legislation.

Egypt

Where to start. I warn you that some of what I write below may offend. I normally complete an entry for each day, but I got a little behind in my blog as the cruise I did before Egypt had limited wifi as did Egypt. I left Egypt feeling very happy to leave. Sadly my anger at how women are treated and repressed here made me not enjoy this country as I was hoping I would. My knowledge of how women are treated in this part of the world, did not prepare me for how I would feel and react. I enjoyed the River Nile cruise on the MS Emilio. It was a fascinating way to travel to the historical areas of this country. The cruise was for 7 nights. There were around 80 people on board, mostly from Germany, a handful of Brits and me the only Aussie.

We started in Edfu with horse and carts ready to take tourists into town. I found it hard to reconcile the intelligence of the historical Egyptian people to the way they currently live. They have rich history of buildings which cannot be built the same way today with all our technological advancements, and yet this country has not advanced. Then there is the contrast of the arid desert of the West bank to the green oasis of the East bank.

Our first historical stop was Kom Ombo.

My favourite was the Philae Temple. We took a bus and then a boat ride out to the island where this temple was moved to. It was on another island which had flooded and the temple was moved out of flood area. I had a scary moment when I asked a police officer to have a photo with me. (I do this in every country in the world I travel to and only had China and Belgium police decline). The Egyptian officer and his colleague took me to a spot on the island which I figured he chose as it would not be identified in photos. It was my first lesson that if you ask for a photo with someone or ask them to take a photo in Egypt that you have to pay them. I paid the fellow in the photo and his colleague got angry that I didn’t give him money. I quickly got out of the way and let them sort it out between them. I didn’t think I needed to pay someone who wasn’t in the photo. This was one of many instances where my Western ways did not understand the ways of this country.

An additional part of the trip which cost extra was the trip to Abu Simbel. Many people recommended I do this 7 hour bus trip even though you only spend one hour on site. I highly recommend this trip. On the way we had a bit of excitement as the bus broke down in the middle of the desert. It was amusing to see all the German engineers and mechanics providing advice on how to get the bus going again. It was obvious this happens often as the bus driver put some sort of patch on the radiator and we were on our way. While we all off the bus waiting for the radiator to cool, someone pointed out that we had a “tourist police” on board. The man with the blue suit, you will see is carrying an uzi. This reinforced the dangers of travelling in this country. Within 20 minutes of us breaking down, the police were on site to see what was going on. They know where everyone is. Every vehicle goes through checkpoints at each tourist destination. There are dog squads, police check under vehicles for bombs, passports are checked.

Abu Simbel is somewhere to be experienced. Photos do not do it justice.

In real this temple is much smaller than the Ramses Temple above.

My small contribution to making women more prominant is to include the womens as the larger photo.

I thoroughly enjoyed the Nubian Village. As in most societies, the indigenous in Egypt, the Nubians, have long been marginalised. In recent times they have been moved from their lands twice. We were invited into a Nubian House and introduced to their pets.

The homes are in a beautiful part of the River Nile. We had a lovely cup of hibiscus tea and were shown around their home.

The highlight of my trip was a hot air balloon ride over the Valley of the Kings and Hatshepsut, Colossi of Memnon and Luxor. I wasn’t worried unti I got in the basket with 23 other people from USA and Spain. Then thought “what the hell am I doing”. It wasn’t long before I was mesmerised by the view and the silence in between the burner activating. The pilot was wonderful.

Colossis of Menmon

Valley of the Kings has several tombs and I got to look into KV 6, KV 8 and KV11.

In KV8 I bumped into an Aussie who lives 10 minutes from me in Sydney and then I bumped into him in Luxor airport.

The temples of Esna were under mud for 3000 years. Fascinating how a city was built on top of this historical ruins. They were discovered 200 years ago and archaeologists are still uncovering treasures. Houses built on top of the ruins are slowly being acquired and people are being relocated. A bit like how people in Sydney have had their homes purchased by the government to build roads or airports. It is amazing how this workmanship has lasted 3 millenia and the colours, although faded, are still very visible. How have the colours of the work lasted so long!

Civilisation Museum in Cairo

What a magnificent museum. One floor holds most of the mummified kings and Queens of Egypt. They were very tall. Unfortunately you aren’t permitted to take photos of the mummies but the top floor has some beautiful artifacts. Highly recommend attending.

Hanging Church in Old Cairo

Built by the Romans in the Old Cairo district, this church is constructed on top of columns and is a Coptic church.

The finale of Cairo, the Giza Pyramids and Sphinx

In summary of this once in a lifetime trip, I wanted to capture exactly how I feel immediately after this trip, not some time down the track when I can romanticise the trip.

This trip to Egypt has been a mix of emotions for me. I do not wish to offend anyone, this is what I feel and think. Perhaps some of it is due to some historical events in my life but it is how I felt here. I have travelled the world extensively. I have been to some very dangerous cities and villages. I have lived in the midst of poverty and corruption. I have never felt the fear, discomfort, anger, frustration and other emotions in one place as I experienced in Egypt. I think it is mostly due to the repression of women. The boat on the Nile doesn’t have any women working on the boat. I saw women in Cairo but in Luxor, Esna and the other areas it is rare to see women. I was travelling as a solo female with other tourists who were couples and I was treated differently to the other females who had male partners. When I travel I prefer to stay in the areas of the locals, not in 5 star hotel resorts. The hotel I stayed in Giza had police presence outside, armed guards inside with metal detector and bag check at entry. The town looks like it has been bombed. The pollution is so thick that it was worse than a bad fire smoke day during bushfires in Sydney. I always go with my gut feeling and this part of Egypt was not one I felt comfortable to walk around. In Luxor, Cairo and all along the River Nile, I found the loud speaker call to prayer five times a day at around midnight, 3:30am, 6:00am, 3:30pm and 6:00pm very discomforting. There is nowhere you cannot hear it. Interestingly I tried to compare it to monks chanting but their prayer feels calming to me.

In summary, I am so glad I did this trip. I loved the Civilisation Museum, the River Nile cruise, all the history, the hot air balloon over Luxor but unfortunately the fear and anger I felt about how women are treated, is enough for me not to want to return. Many people speak to me about how safe they feel on this trip, but I think it is because they stay in 5 star accommodation which is far from seeing what the real Egypt is.

I would recommend any solo females to do the trip with a reputable company, stay in 5 star accommodation. This is the most expensive and over priced trip I have ever done. An example, the hotel I stayed in costs £80 per night, the travel agent charged £480 for 2 nights. This is what all agents charge. You will pay quite a lot of money for the trip and an exorbitant amount during the trip paying tips for everyone from the driver you have already paid for in your “all inclusive trip” to paying for 5 sheets of toilet paper you are given if you use a toilet in museums you have already paid to enter. As I said earlier, I do not wish to offend anyone, this is my experience and how I feel. I hope this can prepare others.

Witch Sculpture Trail Barley Pendle Hill

Last week, Paul, the brother of my dear friend from Sydney Ann, took me for a wonderful country drive around Lancashire and came across this sculpture trail. It is a trail which takes 2 hours and we did not have enough daylight to look into this part of the countryside. Today, I had the opportunity to do the sculpture walk with Barbara, who is a wiccan. She is the mother of identical twins Becki and Hana who lived with me in Sydney. Barbara asked what I would like to see in her part of the world while I was travelling and I asked about this sculpture trail as I thought it would be of interest to her also. We had a fabulous day walking through this gorgeous countryside. It is so different to anything I have seen in Australia. We started with scones and hot chocolate in The Cabin in Barley. Must stop here before or after the numerous walks around Pendle Hill.

Then we started out to find the sculpture trail. Barbara was concerned about the mist, fog and rain and I was determined not to allow anything to deter us from this walk, even with the bitter cold which I do not particularly cope well with. Anyone who knows me would be surprised with me saying this, but this is such beautiful countryside and it is England. If I cannot cope with this weather I should not be here. But no matter how cold, how stunning is this!! The rain stayed away, the sun tried to peek through and the cold was bearable. At least it didn’t snow.

When we found the sculpture trail I have to say that the first two art pieces did not excite me. I didn’t quite understand how they are witch related.

But then we came across this creepy but enchanting chair with other mythical creatures.

The trail has ceramic tiles which represent the 10 “witches” who were hanged and hold clues for a quiz.

The Witch Finder General.

Some other pieces of interest.

A couple of witches at the Pendle Hill Inn at the end of the trail.

We finished off the day with dinner in Preston at the Bistrot Pierre. Highly recommend this place.

Thank you Barbara for a memorable day.

Blackpool

Blackpool is a 25 minute train ride from Preston. Cost is 10GBP offpeak. After spending a few hours planning my next few weeks of travel, I finally got on a train at 4:30pm. The “beach” is a few minute walk from Blackpool North Station. It is certainly very different to Australian beaches. But that is the beauty of the world being different. It was low tide and you can see the different channels which could be dangerous to anyone who doesn’t understand the changing depths when the tide is high. There are warnings around the beach. Different to the Australian warnings. Not sure I would go swimming here but it is a very popular place to go to.

People asked me why I am going to Blackpool, “there is nothing there!” and “it isn’t a good place”. Travelling I have learned that there is something to see and beauty in every place, you just have to open your eyes and “see” the place. It does look a bit run down but I expect it looks a bit “Vegas” at night. It does remind me of Atlantic City or Coney Island.

The Comedy Carpet is a celebration of comedy and made up of over 160,000 mosaic tiles.

Walking around town

The 3 piers. North, South and Central. North Pier was closed but a security guard let me in to get a couple of pics.

Of course I always find the Drag Bars in the world. At 6:30pm there was great dance music calling me into Garlands. Thank you Elsie Duchess for your music.

Liverpool

Today I met up with 2 cruise friends, Peter from Preston and Lynford from York. A day in Liverpool means looking up all possible to do with the Beatles as this is where they grew up and were they started their ride to fame. I took the train from Preston to Liverpool. Cost was 15GBP return and a comfy 1 hour trip. Liverpool station is huge! Not quite like the Liverpool station in Sydney.

We walked down to the Cavern Precinct looking for the John Lennon statue. Found the Cavern Club, Cilla Black, The Beatles Shop.

John Lennon’s statue was nowhere to be seen and then we realised it was under cover

Of course I asked a nearby worker if we could have a reveal of John Lennon as I had come all the way from Australia. He was so excited to hear my accent, Barney did more than remove the protective cover.

Before the City Sights Liverpool City and Beatles Hop On Hop off Off tour we had a look around town

Liverpool has a harbour and cruise terminal with lovely areas similar to Darling Harbour and Barangaroo. You can see today there is sunshine and it was glorious sitting outside without freezing.

The bus stopped off at the Penny Lane sign, Strawberry Fields, although the gates are not the original gates, John’s childhood home and travelled through areas including a street of churches. One of the fun things of this open bus was how many people wave at everyone and particularly when the bus passes by high up office windows and the workers wait for the bus to come by for everyone to wave.

Lancashire drive

Today a dear friend, Ann, who lives in Sydney, arranged for me to meet up with her brother, Paul, who is a Lancashire local. He kindly introduced me to some lovely parts of Lancashire I would not be able to experience without a car. The beautiful countryside. We drove through the tiny roads through villages, exactly like the travel shows and movies, with dry walls, sheep, lovely farm houses and green fields or moors.

Stopped off at a couple of pubs, one of which the Pendle Hill. This area is famed for witches. There is a steep walk up a hill to a “Bronze Age” burial site at the top of the hill. Unfortunately by the time we got there is was getting too dark to climb the 557 metre “hill”. One of it’s claim to fame is the Pendle Hill witch trials in 1612

One of my favourite stops was the Top Lock at Wheelton. There is a pub at the end of the Lock which is on the Liverpool Leeds Canal. I love the barges on the canals in England. I hope I get the opportunity to stay on one.

Ye Old Hob Inn was built in 1616 with its original thatched roof and infamous history of the Battle of Bamber Bridge. People in the 1600s must have been short as the roof is so low!!

Preston

I have got to know a lot of London train stations and today I took the tube from Park Royal to Green Park, then Green Park took the Victoria Line to Euston Road then Euston Road National Rail train to Preston. I left Park Royal at 10:30am and arrived at Preston 2:35pm. 360kms later and I have a return ticket back to London on 1 April 2022, total cost 104GBP. I procrastinated 10minutes and it was 78GBP. I will hit the buy button quicker in future. I am staying in the Quality Apartments Preston and they are a 4 minute walk from the station. I paid 10GBP for a taxi, not realising how easy the walk is from the station. Not cobblestone footpath, no stairs, only a slight slope to push my bag. When going back to the station I will be walking.

I went for a little explore and to buy some groceries as I am staying put for 9 days and I have a kitchen!! First stop I found a Wallace and Grommit statue! I didn’t realise that is where creator of this much loved animation, Nick Park, hails from.

Then down the road a more sombre memorial to the Preston Martyrs who were shot by soldiers during the cotton workers strike of 1842. The drinking establishment in the background was named after this sad reminder of the year of the shooting.

The next day I woke to 20 degrees celsius. The first day in the UK I didn’t wear my big Arctic jacket. I walked past people saying “I can’t believe I turned on my car air con today”!! What a glorious day to explore Preston.

I was surprised by pretty Winckley Park.

And then I walked down to Avenham Park. Wow! I love the Japanese Garden and all the people out playing ball, slack lining, picnicing and just cuddling with the ones they love.

At the Continental Hotel met this lovely couple Charlie and Kirsty (she prounounced it Kursta to my uneducated ear). I also made a dyslexic error looking for the Piddle River which is actually the Ribble River. Have a giggle over that one. I enjoyed a Jaffa Cake Rum. I had to try it as I love Jaffa.

Finished off the evening with some Trivia at the Black Bull Fulwood with a cruise friend, Peter. I met Peter on the Transpacific cruise in November 2019, just before Covid-19 stopped all our fun. Peter has written a book “This Boy“. Can you see where I am in it?

Abbey Road/Hyde Park/Kensington Palace

I started the day with a more recent history, the 1960s with the famous Abbey Road Studios and crossing. It is a great spot to people watch. The drivers in the area are very patient with the idiots who stop in the middle of the crossing, who could easily wait until there is a break in the traffic but, no, too stupid. I was fortunate today was not a very busy day so got a few shots in. It was the warmest day I have had in London but not warm enough for me to go barefoot.

Did you know that the Abbey Road Studios were opened by classical music fame, Sir Edward Elgar? While people watching I met an icon of the Studios, Lester, who has been working in the studios for 52 years!!

The walls out the front of the studios are filled with grafitti messages from around the world with a large message, appropriate for this current time “Free Ukraine”. I of course added my own little message. The Council paints over them from time to time to allow for new messages to be posted.

Some of the architecture around Abbey Road.

Next stop was Hyde Park. Much larger than Sydney’s Hyde Park, not as large as New York’s Central Park, but too large to do all in one day. From the Italian Gardens which I stumbled across.

Princess Diana’s Memorial Fountain, Kensington Palace and Gardens. Princess Diana’s Memorial Fountain reminded me of the water ride Diana and her boys at a fun park. A beautiful memory of a special time she had with her boys.

I love squirrels and there are several playing in Hyde Park.

One of the benches in Kensington Gardens with a quote from Alan Rickman known as “Snape” amongst many other charachters, caught my attention.

I don’t quite understand the quote. Did he predict his own demise?

On my roadtrip in the USA I had many “wow” moments, particularly of their natural landscape. We often speak of the Americans doing everything bigger than everyone. Well, I think when it comes to historical architecture, London has amazing bigger “wow” moments. So many amazing buildings but today, just 2, The Royal Albert Hall and Queen Victoria’s memorial to her husband The Albert Memorial. They are so huge with so much intricacy, it is hard to beat the “wow” factor. Kensington Palace isn’t so little

Tower of London

What a magnificient historical palace. There is so much to see and learn about this palace which dates back to 1078.

So much gruesome history which many of know about the beheading of queens such as Anne Boleyn. Strange standing in the spots where these people’s lives came to a tragic end.

The Crown Jewels are the highlight. What amazing jewels and unfortunately you cannot photograph them but this is a link to what you see. Crown Jewels. The diamonds are so big they look fake. The collection is valued at around 5 billion pounds ($AUD9 billion). The sceptre diamond on its own is worth 400million pounds ($AUD700 million)

You must do the tour with one of the Beefeaters or Yeoman Warders of the Tower of London. Did you know that to be a Beefeater you have to have served at least 22 years in the armed forces, be a former warrant officer or senior non commissioned, plus hold the Long Service and Good Conduct medal and when accepted the whole family lives in the grounds of the Tower of London! Clive was our tour guide. Very entertaining but he is not “just” a tour guide. This is a part of the role of a Beefeater.

The moat around the Tower of London is being prepared for a sea of flowers, well 20 million seeds will be planted, for the Superbloom Platinum Jubilee celebration.

White Cliffs of Dover and Dover Castle

A short 45 minute bus ride from Canterbury is the town of Dover famous for their White Cliffs. A further 35 minutes by car is a view of the cliffs along the coast which I did not get a chance to experience, although I think the photos below the Dover Castle are quite epic. Can you see the Dover Castle lookouts in the cliff?

The walk along the shore front of Dover

The Dover Castle looks majestically over the town. The view from the hill is pretty spectacular, looking out to Calais in the distance some 27 nautical miles across the English Channel. I didn’t get to see much of the castle as you need at least 6 hours to do it right. However, I did the secret tunnels of the castle which were importantly used during WWII. Unfortunately you are not permitted to photograph anything in the tunnels so you will have to take my word for it that I went.